Saturday morning, Heidelberg, no plan.
Here's how it all unfolded:
I'd read about Philosphenweg, a street that winds up the hill through beautiful gardens to take you to some beautiful views of Heidelberg. What a nice way to start.
First impressions of Heidelberg
Crossing the bridge I saw the Neckar River parting the hills of Heidelberg and got my first view of the places I would go. It looked beautiful and ready to explore.
The Philosophenweg
The view of Altstadt from Philosophenweg
The real attraction of Heidelberg for tourists is the Altstadt, the old part of the city with the Castle, old bridge, old houses and old churches. From this point I thought about how I'd have a look at the castle before walking through the Altstadt for a while. As it would turn out I would end up getting drawn to go a lot further.
The path winds on
Odenwald
There is no real end to the Philosophenweg, it just connects to more paths (official and unofficial) that cut in all directions all over the hill and as some cyclists told me, can go on for days following the river. At that point it was time for a decision, and because I didn't have days, I aimed for something more achievable, up. So I changed direction to find out what it was like at the top of the hill.
Random Patterns
The forest surrounding Heidelberg is the Odenwald, and it was amazing how quickly you can go from a large city to dense beautiful forest. It was really beautiful, the air was sweet and aromatic, the only noise that came through were the bells of the church on the other side of the river ringing out the new hour. The background score was forest birds including a woodpecker and a cuckoo and at times during the day the far away applause of the rain falling on the leaves above.
A path, or is it?
Sometimes when you go walking you see paths are what look like paths that have no identification and the tease you with where they might lead to, you never have enough time to try them all but there is always a bit of a thrill when you head to down an unknown path to its secret destination.
More Odenwald
I continued to head towards the top when I came upon a clearing with a lookout tower as a reward for my efforts.
Lookout tower
The view across to the castle from the lookout tower
I thought the tower was a nice reward for reaching the top of the hill until I realized this was not the top of the hill. Being male, it was not enough to be almost at the top of the hill so I got back on the track to see what lies at the top.
A surreal Amphitheatre
On the way to the top of the hill and hidden by forest is this amazing Amphitheatre that looked ancient and mystical but as I found out later was mad by the Nazis using slave labour.
I am always in awe of the amount of work that has gone into creating old stone buildings at the top of hills, considering how much effort is takes just to walk up the hill.
The ruins of the Monastery
Finally at the top of the hill, there is the ruins of a Monastery built 1000 years ago.
Schlangenweg
After some photos and a look around at the top, it was time to head back down the hill. When you see car parks and bus stops at the to of the hill you wonder why you bother, but then you remember what it was like to pass through the forest on foot and know there's nothing like it.
Heading back down from the Philosophenweg is a stone staircase named Schlangenweg or the snakes way that takes you all the way down to the bank of river just in front of the old bridge.
Altebruecke, the old bridge
The old bridge takes you across the river right into the heat of the old city.
Crossing the old bridge into the old city
Passing through the old city I headed up to the castle and stroll around the grounds.
Castle tower
The castle from the back
Walking around behind the castle, it was nice thrill to be able to see the look out tower on the hill I just came from. It's not easy to see on the photo but its in the little gap in the trees on the hill top.
Heading up the hill again
Although I thought looking at the castle and then the old city would be enough, I felt the call of the top of the hill once again.
It was quite an effort for me considering the work to walk up and down the other hill, and by the time I got to the top of the hill I was really puffing and sweating. I was not sure how far I had gone so it was suprising to see the view when I finally got to the top.
The view from Koenigstuhl
The signs all pointed to Koenigstuhl, which translates to King's chair, which I believed to be some landmark or monument and after walking around for a while, seeing an other bus-stop and some more car parks, I asked some other travelers where Koenigstuhl was and they told me I was there because it was actually the name of the hill. I was disappointed and elated at the same time.
The stairway from hell....and me without a slinky
I decided to take another way down the hill for a different look. This great long stone stairway heads from the top of the hill down to the castle, extremely steep, some steps sloping down hill, some of them not big enough to put you whole foot on and all of them wet, it was hard to know whether this direct path down was really faster. By the time I got to the bottom my legs were quivering from the unusual exertion.
The castle from an Altstadt square
Church skirted by souvenir stalls
Returning back to the old town for a look around, it was nice to walk around on the flat for a while just strolling around. I know its a popular tourist destination but I was amazed to walk onto the main street and see people in the street as far as I could see
The main street
I stopped at a cafe for a little reward after a non-stop 6 hour walking tour of Heidelberg, drinking the best hot chocolate ever. I was trying not to show the sweat soaked into the back of my t-shirt and thought how anyone who saw it would imagine what I'd done that day, because I wouldn't have either.